Garment construction



Aug. 19, 1947. J, CLYNE 2,426,144

GARMENT CONS TRUC TION 4 Filed July 20, 1945 INV ENTOR JOJ'EPH NE BY I"2 ATTORNEYS Patented Aug. 19, 1947 2,426,144 GARMENT CONSTRUCTIONJosephClyne, Bronx, N. Y.

Application July 20, 1945, Serial No. 606,133

6 Claims.

My invention relates to improvements in garments of the type of waists,blouses and jackets, and more particularly to an improved constructionin which the sleeve and body elements are combined in such a manner asto provide a comfortable and pleasing fit for the wearer and at the sametime provide a construction which will permit free movement of the armsand body of the wearer.

When a person wearing a waist or jacket of common construction attemptsto raise his arm, it is not an unusual experience to find that thesleeve of the garment places-a strain on the upper arm muscle so thatthe wearer does not have free movement of his arm. Furthermore, it is acommon experience to find that the wearer of an ordinary waist, forexample, cannot raise his arms without pulling the rest of his garmentout of position, to either twist it around his body, or make it ride up.This is particularly true if the wearer of the garment is in a sittingposition. In some cases, it is very difficult for one in a sittingposition to raise his arms when wearing a waist or jacket of ordinaryconstruction. The strains produced on the arm muscles under suchconditions necessarily make the wearer of the garment uncomfortable andgive him the feeling that his arms are held down under tension.

The primary object, therefore, of the present invention is to provide animproved garment construction which will overcome the difficulties andobjections referred to above, and particularly to provide an uppergarment in which there is a minimum of restraint against free armmovement. 4

Another object of the invention is to provide an improved upper garmentconstruction which permits the raising and swinging of the wearers armswithout strain on his arm muscles, and without pulling the garment outof its normal position.

Accordingly, the improved garment construction of the present inventioncomprises. a front section, a sidesection and a back section, the frontand back sections being joined to the side section by seams toward thefront and back, respectively, of the garment, the side sectioncomprising an integral part of an elongated panel of material providingnot only the side section ofthe garment but also an undersleeve for thegarment. The panel which provides the under sleeve and side section ofthe garment preferably includes a substantial allowance at the armpit topermit freedom of movement of the wearers arms. The garment alsoincludes a top sleeve which is joined to the under sleeve by seamsextending lengthwise of the sleeve members and is also joined to thefront and back sections of the garment by suitable seams.. The specialconstruction permits free arm movement without distorting the positionof the garment on the wearer and without binding the arm muscles ofthewearer.

According to a preferred form of construction, the combined body andsleeve panel includes a dart in the side panel sectionv which extendssubstantially to thearmpit of the panel and which is connected throughan armpit seam to the armhole section of the garment. Thecombinedpanelhas a side notch at the armpit which is sewed up to provide a bentsection at the armpit.

The improved garment of the present invention includes other features,objects and advantages which will be apparent to those skilled in theart from the following more detailed description taken in connectionwith the accompanying drawings forming'a part of this application.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a diagrammatic view showing the sleeve and body elements ofthe improved garment of the present invention, the elements being shownin outline or in pattern form in approximately the arrangement in whichthey are combined together.

Fig. 2 is a View partly to one side of a. garment constructed inaccordance. with the present invention, such as a jacket, the viewillustrating the relationship between the sleeve and body elements withone sleeve of the garment in partly raised position.

Figure 3 is an enlarged side' broken view showing the. armpit structureof the garment.

Referring to Fig; 1 of the drawings in which the various sections orelements of the garment of the present invention are shown in patternform, these elements or sections made of any suitable fabric comprise aback section Ill which is substantially narrower than the back sectionof the standard pattern and a front section I 2 which is alsosubstantially narrower than the front section of the standard pattern.The portions eliminated from the front and back sections of the garmentare at the side normally under the armpit of the garment. The garmenttherefore includes a special relatively long panel member or section I4which forms a side section it for the garment and an under sleeve I8.The parts 16 and I8 are integral, with the section l6 positionedbetweenthe front and back sections Ill and [2 in approximately the relationshipshown in Fig. 1. Fig. 1 also shows the pattern of the top sleeve 20which is attached to the other portions of the garment referred toabove.

' Fig. 2 illustrates the style and form of garment made from thesections shown in Fig. 1 in which a jacket form of garment isillustrated with belt, buttons and collar of more or less conventionaldesign.

The panel member I4 comprising the side and under sleeve of the garmentis provided with a dart 22, the cut for which extends to the armpitsection of the panel and which connects with an upwardly inclined cut 24in the material, which runs to a side notch having edges 26 and 2B, Thecut 24 extends toward the back of the garment and comprisessubstantially a continuation of the edge 28 which extends to the marginof the panel The under sleeve portion of the panel [4 is also cut fromthe front edge as shown at 30, slightly along the sleeve from the edge28 at a curve extending nearly half way across the under sleeve I8. Thiscut is substantially along the standard pattern line for an undersleeve, the continuation of which is indicated by a dotted line 32 whichextends across the sleeve to the back edge of the under sleeve at thearmpit section of the panel 14. A dotted line 34 comprisingsubstantially a continuation of the cut 24 also extends toward the backof the panel I4, this line 34 indicating approximately the standardpattern line which would normally be a part of the waist section of thegarment. The dart 22 is formed approximately at the position of the sideseam of the standard garment.

An important feature of the present invention is the inclusion of aconsiderable allowance or allowances in the panel I 4 generallyrepresented by the irregular shaped area 36 between the cut 30, the line32, and the lower boundary formed by the edge 28, the cut 24 and thedotted line 34. However, the under sleeve section I8 includes otherminor allowances or deviations from the pattern of the standard sleevein the region of the cut 30 and the dotted line 32.

In making up a garment such as the jacket illustrated in Figures 2 and3, the edge 38 of the back section is sewed to the edge 42 of the sidesection [6 up to about the line 34. An edge 40 of the side section I6below the edge 26 is sewed to an edge 44 of the front section l2, thedart 22 is sewed up to the cut 24 which is also sewed up, and the edges26 and 28 are sewed together to form a bend in the panel l4 at thearmpit. In these operations, the cut 30 is also sewed up to form a seamof dart configuration extending approximately to the middle of the undersleeve 18. An edge 46 of the top sleeve is sewed to the edge 48 of theunder sleeve, and the edge 50 of the top sleeve is sewed to the edge 52of the under sleeve. The top edges 54 and 56 of the back and frontsections are sewed together in the usual manner and the curved upperedge 68 of the top sleeve 20 is sewed into the armhole edges and thenecessary edges of the panel I 4 to complete the combination of theelements of the garment shown in Fig. 1. Both sleeves and sides of thegarment are constructed alike in the usual manner, with two backs lsewed to each other, and the garment is completed to produce a jacket asillustrated in Fig. 2 or to produce a waist or other type of uppergarment as desired.

The dart 22 has the effect of narrowing the panel l4 below the allowancearea 36, and the dart made from the cut 24 and the adjacent notchsmooths out the bend formed by sewing 4 together the edges 26 and 28. Atthe same time the cut 24 permits the material at the left of the dart 22to be shifted to the right, when the dart is sewed up, withoutdisturbing the full width of the area 36. It will be noted that in theoperation of forming the dart 22 and the dart formed from the notch andcontinuing cut a narrowing of the upper part of the waist section of thepanel I4 is eifected, while the allowance of extra material 36 and theunder sleeve section H) are substantially unaltered. The dart formed bysewing up the cut 30 increases the bend in the panel 14 and aids inshaping the underarm portion of the panel.

The improved garment construction of the present invention comprises arelatively simple pattern arrangement in which a novel form of sidepanel and under sleeve is provided for giving a garment structure whichpermits free movement of the wearers arms without binding the armmuscles and without distorting the garment on the body of the wearer.For example, the wearer of the garment of the present invention mayraise his arms in any position without breaking the seams about thesleeve and body portion of the garment and without pulling the body ofthe garment from its normal position on the wearer. From the foregoingdescription, it will be apparent that certain variations may be made inthe structure and arrangement of the panel combination and still achievemost of the objects and advantages of the present invention. Theimproved structure of the present invention may be employed in themaking of various types of garments such as jackets, ladies waists andother types of garments.

What is claimed as new is:

1. In a sleeved garment having a waist portion including a frontsection, a back section, a top sleeve and an elongated one piece panelmember one end section of which is set in the side of the garmentbetween the front and back sections and the opposite end section ofwhich is sewed to the top sleeve to provide an under sleeve for thegarment, the improvement in which said panel member in blank or patternform includes a considerable allowance of extra material as anintermediate section for the armpit of the garment to permit the freeraising of the wearers arm without binding his arm muscles, the lowerfront portion of said allowance being bounded by a V-shaped notch in thefront edge of the panel and a cut extending downwardly and backwardlyfrom the V-point of the notch to about halfway across the panel, theedges of said notch and cut respectively being sewed together, wherebysaid panel member is substantially bent forward at the armpit of thegarment and shaped to fit the wearer.

2. In a sleeved garment as defined by claim 1 in which said panel inpattern form includes a vertical cut extending downwardly from the backend of said backwardly extending cut, and in which the edges of saidvertical out are sewed together.

3. In a sleeved garment having a waist portion including a frontsection, a back section, a top sleeve and an elongated one piece panelmember one end section of which is set in the side of the garmentbetween the front and back sections and the opposite end section ofwhich is sewed to the top sleeve to provide an under sleeve for thegarment, the improvement in which said panel member includes aconsiderable allowance of extra material as an intermediate sectionextending across the panel member at the armpit of the garment to permitthe free raising of the wearers arm without binding his arm muscles, theintermediate allowance section of the panel member having an armpitstructure including a pair of substantially spaced darts formed bysewing-up the edges of spaced laterally extending cuts in the materialof the panel member, said darts converging toward the front edge of thepanel and extending from about halfway across the panel member to itsfront edge at the armpit of the garment, whereby said panel member issubstantially bent forward at the armpit of the garment and shaped tofit the wearer.

4. In a sleeved garment as defined by claim 3 in which a dart extends asubstantial distance downwardly intermediate the sides of said panelfrom the back end of the lower of said spaced darts.

5. In a sleeved garment as defined by claim 3 in which the lower of saiddarts is formed by sewing up the edges Of a notch in the front edge of apanel and the edges of a cut extending backwardly and downwardly in thepanel from the notch to about halfway across the panel.

6. An elongated one-piece panel section for a sleeved garment, one endsection of which is adapted to be set into the side of the garmentbetween the front and back sections thereof and the other end section ofwhich is adapted to form an undersleeve section for the sleeve of thegarment, having at an intermediate portion thereof, a generally V-shapednotch extending inwardly from one edge, a cut extending from the V-pointof the notch downwardly and inwardly into the section of the panel whichis to be set into the side of the garment to a point about halfwayacross the panel, and a cut extending transversely into the panel fromsaid edge thereof, the edges of said V-shaped notch and said cuts beingadapted to be sewed together to form darts converging towards the edgefrom which the V-shaped notch and said second cut extends and to definea section to lie adjacent the armhole section of a garment forming anallowance of extra material which will permit free raising of thewearers arm without binding of his arm muscles.

JOSEPH CLYNE.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 2,094,643 Fellroth Oct. 5, 19371,740,272 Sferrazza Dec. 17, 1929 2,369,416 Solomon Feb. 13, 1945FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 211,038 Great Britain Feb. 14, 1924

